Salwar suits have been a big part of traditional Indian attire ever since the Mughals popularised stitching as a concept to the Indian subcontinent. Before salwar suits, Anarkali, and kurtas people wore clothes that simply wrapped around the body. However, the popularity of innovative styles of dressing paved the way for royal and elegant looks tailor-made to perfection.
Ever since then, salwar suits have been ubiquitous in our culture. With diverse communities and cultures across India, salwar suits evolved with different kinds of embroidery and patterns. These designs stem from a variety of materials, techniques, and craftsmanship unique to the different regions.
Let’s look at a few salwar suit embroidery styles that you can incorporate into your outfits that stand the test of time and are trending even today.
- Zardosi Embroidery
Zardosi as an embroidery style was introduced to India by the Persians when they frequented our country for trade. Around the 17th century, they brought in their embroidering style laden with strings of gold and silver along with precious beads and jewels. The word Zardosi comes from the Urdu word ‘zari’ which means gold and ‘dosi’ which means embroidery making the style very evidently a gold-heavy pattern style. Once reserved only for the higher sections of society, the embroidery style is more accessible and affordable today thanks to modern technology.
- Chikankari Embroidery
The Chikankari embroidery style was popularised to embrace the minimalistic usage of colours while elevating any fabric with intricate design. This style originated as a way to elevate the simple white cotton salwar suit with a handwoven design that would look sophisticated yet elegant. But as time passed, Chikankari was seen in many fabrics and colours moving past the monochromatic look and feel to more vibrant attires.
- Banjara Embroidery
The Banjara community is a nomadic tribe that travels all across the country, absorbing multiple cultures as well as their embroidery techniques. So, their patterns and designs are not restricted to intricate and delicate motifs but an amalgamation of multiple patterns, and shapes, as well as flora and fauna. These designs were either stitched or superimposed onto the fabric, inspired by different parts of the country as they travelled from one place to the other. Their geometric, asymmetric, and antique designs stand out in a crowd making it a great artwork for a salwar suit. The Banjara-style embroidery also consists of patches, quilts, and crochet making it a canvas of beautifully mismatched patterns.
- Sheesha Embroidery
Sheesha, literally meaning mirror, is a beautiful piece of ornament used to bedazzle salwar suits. A mirror-work salwar suit consists of hundreds of tiny mirrors that are secure with monochrome or colourful thread. These mirrors reflect light to make you glow under natural sunlight and twinkle under the night lights. You can pick from a royal heavily-mirrored salwar suit or minimal designs made using mirror embroidery. You can also opt for the far more affordable and lighter option which includes using reflective plastic pieces instead of mirrors.
- Kashida Embroidery
A unique form of embroidery that is exclusive to the regions of Kashmir, Kashida embroidery patterns include large motifs of flowers, paisleys, and leaves on either woollen or pashmina fabrics. The base fabric colour is also usually limited to black for winters and white for summers to absorb and reflect light respectively while being covered in large colourful motifs that stand out gracefully.
- Toda Embroidery
Toda embroidery is found in the Toda region surrounding the Nilgiri hills of Tamil Nadu. The Nilgiri hills are a popular hill station where the Nilgiri flowers bloom only once in 12 years. Once they bloom, they fill the mountain range with hues of purple like a mesmerising blanket that soothes the eyes of any wanderer. This beautiful phenomenon is captured on the Toda embroidery which is also called the ‘pohor’ or flower embroidery that encapsulates the beauty of the Nilgiri hills with fine red and black-on-white cloth.
- Phulkari Embroidery
As the name suggests, Phulkari is an elegant floral design that is handwoven with fine needlework by the artisans of Punjab. The Phulkari work is not minimal when it comes to the pattern and colours. This embroidery work resonates with the vibrant and vivacious spirit of Punjab in all its glory. The Phulkari stitch is not intricate, they use simple up, down, left, and right stitches to create beautiful geometric designs that have been celebrated for generations in the past and the ones to come.
- Aari Embroidery
Aari is a stunning embroidery style where loop stitches are used to create large patterns without using too much thread. It is occasionally decorated with beads, stones, and sequins to make the final handicraft even more elegant and premium. Salwar suits made of heavy Aari work are usually worn at weddings or any other festive ceremonies and celebrations. Even after being heavily embroidered, the single stitch makes garments with aari embroidery lighter, easy to wear, and stylish. Aari embroidered salwar suits are also a breeze to care for and maintain.
Key Takeaways:
Salwar suits have been and will continue to be an important part of women’s wardrobes because of their comfort, elegance, and versatility. But what makes them even more desirable are the different patterns and embroidery work they come in. From zardosi to aari, from phulkari to banjara – Indian communities boast of a number of patterns and designs to ensure salwar suits never go out of style.
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